How Many Litter Boxes Per Cat, and Where to Put Them

The standard rule is one litter box per cat, plus one extra. Cornell Feline Health Center advises having as many boxes as cats in the house, plus one, which helps reduce competition between cats. So two cats need three boxes, and three cats need four. Where you put those boxes matters almost as much as how many you have.

How Many Litter Boxes Per Cat?

Count every cat in the home, then add one. The ASPCA gives the same guidance, with the example that a household with three cats needs a minimum of four litter boxes. The table below applies that “n+1” rule to common household sizes.

Treat these numbers as a minimum, not a target. A new kitten counts as a full cat, so a home with one adult cat that adopts a kitten should move from two boxes to three.

The ASPCA also notes that a multi-level home may need a box on each floor. If you have a big house, plan the boxes by area as well as by headcount.

Why the Rule Exists

The extra box is there to prevent disputes. In a multi-cat home, one cat can guard or block access to a box, and the ASPCA lists this kind of conflict as a possible cause of litter box trouble. With only one box per cat, a single cat that blocks the way can leave another cat with nowhere to go.

The rule also keeps boxes cleaner in a practical sense. When use is spread across more boxes, each one gets fewer visits between scoopings. That makes it easier to keep up with the ASPCA’s advice to scoop at least daily and to wash the box and replace all the litter weekly. Our guide on how often to change cat litter covers that routine in more detail.

More boxes only help if they are not all in one spot. iCatCare recommends spreading boxes around the home rather than grouping them together, because another cat could block access to the whole cluster. Three boxes lined up in one corner can work like a single box.

Where to Put Litter Boxes

Choose spots that are quiet, easy to reach and away from food. Cornell says most cats prefer a quiet, private location that is separate from where they eat and that they can reach at any hour of the day. The ASPCA adds that cats do not like feeling cornered, so a good spot gives the cat a view of anyone approaching and more than one way out.

Spread boxes across different areas

Put boxes in different parts of the home instead of side by side. If your cats live on more than one floor, put at least one box on each level. Cornell also advises against putting the only box upstairs or downstairs if your cat has trouble with stairs.

Keep boxes away from food and water

Cats generally prefer to eat and use the box in separate places. Keep food and water bowls well apart from every box. Use your floor plan to find the largest gap you can.

Match the box to the spot

Placement works best when the box itself suits your cat. iCatCare suggests a box about 1.5 times the length of the cat, measured from nose to the base of the tail, and says rectangular boxes tend to work better than corner or oval shapes. The ASPCA notes that most cats dislike lids and liners, and that older or less mobile cats can struggle with high sides or entry from above. Cornell recommends low sides for kittens, seniors and cats with arthritis, and larger boxes for big or heavy cats.

Cornell also suggests unscented, fine-grained litter about 1 to 2 inches deep. If you are still choosing, see our overview of cat litter types.

If you need to move a box, shift it a few inches each day instead of all at once. Cornell advises moving it back to the old spot if your cat stops using it.

Small Apartments and Studios

In a small space you can still follow the same rules. You may not be able to put boxes in separate rooms, but you can put them on different walls or at opposite ends of the room. The aim is to keep each box separate enough that one cat cannot block both.

• Keep food well away. In a studio, put the feeding area as far from the boxes as the layout allows.
• Avoid tight dead ends. A box wedged into a corner or behind furniture can leave a cat with a single exit.
• Be careful with closets and cabinets. A closed-in space with one opening can feel like a trap to some cats, especially if you have more than one. Make sure there is plenty of room and that the cat can leave easily.
• Pick rooms by quiet and access. Whether a box goes in a hallway, bathroom or bedroom matters less than whether the spot is calm, reachable at all hours and away from food.

If you are short on time, an automated box can cut down on scooping, though iCatCare notes that the noise and movement of self-cleaning boxes can startle some cats. Our guide to self-cleaning litter boxes for multiple cats explains what to look for. Keep in mind that these still need the same placement considerations as any other box.

Places to Avoid

The ASPCA recommends avoiding noisy or frightening spots, such as right next to a washer or dryer. Other places that tend to cause problems:

• Next to a dog’s food or water bowls. The ASPCA lists this as a spot to avoid.
• Busy walkways. Keep boxes away from areas with lots of foot traffic.
• Right beside a cat’s own food bowl. The ASPCA says food should not be placed right next to the box.
• Near a cat flap or a floor-length glass door. iCatCare says cats often dislike these locations because they sense threats from outside.
• Dead-end corners in multi-cat homes. If a bullying cat can trap another in a corner, that box may go unused. Cornell suggests an uncovered box with a clear view all around and more than one way out for cats that get ambushed.
• One spot for everything. Putting all the boxes together defeats the purpose of having extras.

Covered boxes deserve a second look in multi-cat homes. iCatCare points out that some cats feel vulnerable in a covered box with only one exit, especially when other cats are around.

Signs the Setup Isn’t Working

The clearest sign is a cat going outside the box. The ASPCA says that at least 10 percent of cats develop litter box problems, so it is common. Other signs include one cat guarding a box, or a cat that avoids a box that used to be fine.

Start with the vet, before changing the setup. The ASPCA says the first step is ruling out medical problems and urine marking. Cornell says a cat with box problems should be checked by a veterinarian, because causes can include kidney disease, thyroid problems, diabetes, urinary tract problems and joint pain. The ASPCA also notes that frequent trips to the box with little urine produced may point to a urinary tract infection, so contact your veterinarian promptly if you see that.

Once the vet has given the all clear, adjust the layout:

1. Check your box count and spacing. Make sure you have at least one more box than cats, spread out.
2. Look at the box and the spot. Is it big enough, easy to enter, quiet and away from food and noise?
3. Look at the soiled spots. If your cat keeps going in the same places, the ASPCA suggests placing a box there. Alternatively, put food, water, a bed or toys in that spot. Cornell similarly suggests putting a food dish where the accident happened, since cats prefer not to eat where they eliminate.
4. Clean the accidents thoroughly. Use a cleaner made for pet urine. Our guide to enzyme cleaners for pet urine explains the options.

Do not wait too long. The ASPCA warns that these problems should be handled quickly, before a cat develops a lasting preference for a surface or location.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many litter boxes do I need for 2 cats?

Three. The n+1 rule says to have one box per cat plus one extra. Place them in different areas so one cat cannot block them all.

How many litter boxes do I need for 3 cats?

Four at minimum. The ASPCA uses this exact example: with three cats, you need at least four boxes. Spread them out, and consider one per floor if your home has several levels.

Do I need a second box if I only have one cat?

Yes, the rule applies to single-cat homes too. One cat means two boxes. A second box gives your cat a choice, and it covers you when one box needs cleaning.

How many boxes does a new kitten need?

A kitten counts as one cat, so add one box for the kitten to your existing total. Cornell notes that kittens do best with low-sided boxes, and iCatCare suggests switching to a larger box as the kitten grows.

Can I put litter boxes next to each other?

It is better not to. Boxes side by side can work like one big box, and one cat can block them all. Spread them around the home, or at least on different walls of the room.

Where should I put a litter box in a small apartment?

Choose a quiet, easy-to-reach spot away from food and water, with a clear view and more than one way out. Avoid noisy appliances and busy walkways. If you have more than one box, place them at opposite ends of the space.

What should I do if a cat suddenly stops using the box?

Talk to your veterinarian first, since medical problems are a common cause. Once health issues are ruled out, review your box count, placement and cleaning routine.

Sources

• ASPCA, Litter Box Problems
• Cornell Feline Health Center, Feline Behavior Problems: House Soiling
• iCatCare, Choosing a litter tray for your cat

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